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What's wrong?

I gave up on the compression check after I got hung up on the spark thing.

I don't have a manual, but obviously I am going to need one. I have a multimeter so I am all set there.

The plugs that I did remove looked OK, however they are all fairly new so it's tough to tell. The ones that are marked as not firing or intermittent did have a darker color, so that may be a hint. My guess is that when the engine is spooled up, it gives spark to each cylinder well, hence why it works better at high RPM and bogs at low RPM.

Yes, I had a good ground when testing spark, I tried the block, the plug itself, the plug base. I ended up trying even more on the ones that would not work.

I think I am on the right track. I find it hard to believe that it would pull that strong at higher RPM's if it was a compression issue, but I will still check that once I get this spark issue sorted out.

Anyone got a manual they want to sell? LOL
 
WOT

camoto said:
I can't tell you exact, because I was not paying that much attention but the 26 runs at about 5500 at about 55 mph (GPS) and the 21 runs at about 5800 at about 46 mph (gps)
Click to expand...
Why is there only 300 rpm difference with 5 inches difference in pitch?
was the 21 a 15" dia prop and the 26 a 13.5"?
 
camoto said:
My guess is that when the engine is spooled up, it gives spark to each cylinder well, hence why it works better at high RPM and bogs at low RPM.
Click to expand...
Are you sure its not bogging because you have the plate all the way down and the exhaust is burried?? I never had any problems w/ bogging:confused:
 
I highly doubt it's anything to do with props or setup at this point.

I am going to try and tackle the spark issue and then move on. This boat is a POS. I have run it for less than 2 hours and spent well over 60 working on it.
 
oh come on.... Just because this thing is a wreck doesn't mean I can't fix it.

Once I get a divorce I will be able to spend all my income on fixing it! LOL
 
New info:

Moved the primaries around on the coils and the spark did not move. Looks like I have MULTIPLE bad coils. I rang out the leads but that shouldn't matter seeing as when I move the wire the one that works continues to work and the one that doesn't keeps not working.

A.) how the F does that happen?
2.) why?
III.) could it really be that simple?

I am going to ohm test the coils next. more to follow.
 
nevermind.... it's definitely the switchboxes. The symptoms change sides when the boxes are completely switched out.
 
not the first time i've seen those go over the winter - usually one customer a year had the pleasure - do yourself a favour and replace both of them - you'll just end up doing it again this year or next - save yourself the trouble.
 
Chris E said:
not the first time i've seen those go over the winter - usually one customer a year had the pleasure - do yourself a favour and replace both of them - you'll just end up doing it again this year or next - save yourself the trouble.
Click to expand...

Agreed - That is Mercury's recomendtion as the bias circuit get damaged. You can be changing switch boxes weekly if you don't or sometimes people roll the dice and get lucky.
 
I am definitely doing both anyways as both of them are messed up, so the gods of destruction have protected me in advance...

I'll get them changed out and test it out and post back. If you never hear from me again, it probably didn't work.
 
gremlins

i went through the same thing on the v-4on the diplomate that i had

good luck daren

buy the manual and test every thing in order saves a lot of headaches later
 
Camoto
Sorry to hear of your troubles, we've all been there at some point or another. Think of the education you are getting. Before you discovered the switch box thing, I would have suggested you check the adjustment on the idle needle valves. Too lean an adjustment will bog on holeshot and be even worse under load. Yet it will run fine at WOT. It does seem odd that it runs fine at speed with a switch box toasted. Still, something is not running right.
I have the exact same hull in a bow rider and it is an amazing boat. I can pull a good skier up on one ski with a 130 Yamaha V4 and a 21" prop. Without a load I plane off in 2 seconds flat. It literally jumps onto plane. 15 seconds is an eternity. I too have a 6" JP and I never lower it for skiing. (You really do need to keep your exhaust relief out of the water.) Propshaft is about 4" below pad.
So be encouraged, once you get the engine thing sorted out you are going to have an incredible rig. A 150 running properly is going to move like a bandit.
 
Cool video, although it will sometimes get up and go like that with only one person and not much else in the boat.

I got a chance to speak with the guy who did the engine work, real nice guy and was nice to take time to talk to me about the motor. I have a funny feeling (because of the sequence of events going back before my time with this boat) that I have never even seen full power out of this motor.

The powerpacks are on order. Time will tell!
 
OK, should have the new switchboxes....

What's the consensus on the idle stabilizer? It seems like a pretty hot topic on weather to keep it or pitch it. I would think that if it does not keep anything going then what's the point?
 
HOW WERE YOU TESTING YOUR SPARK
WERE YOU JUST HOLDIN THE PLUG AGAINST THE BLOCK?
WHERE DID YOU FIND YOUR SWITCH BOXES
PART NUM
YEAR OF YOUR MOTOR
THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR THE INFO
 
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