• Welcome to the Checkmate Community Forums forums.

    You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions, articles and access to our other FREE features.
    By joining our free community you will be able to:

    » Interact with over 10,000 Checkmate Fanatics from around the world!
    » Post topics and messages
    » Post and view photos
    » Communicate privately with other members
    » Access our extensive gallery of old Checkmate brochures located in our Media Gallery
    » Browse the various pictures in our Checkmate photo gallery

    Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

    If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact support by clicking here or by using the"contact us" link at the bottom of the page.

+3 mph

jallen355

Well-known member
I'm on the tale end of breaking in my rebuilt peanut (2.0 litre) 150 and searching for the right setup on my Exciter. I raised my motor 1 3/4" this week and picked up 100 rpm and 3 mph. I'm still not optimal, but I'm making headway, at least. :banana:

Currently I'm at 4 1/4" below, but have no low water p/u. I'm also swinging a 22" Stiletto and and eager to find a better wheel as I'm still only spinning up 5300 rpm. I'm running 10" of setback and will actually have to unbolt and move the bracket up on the transom for any additioanl height.

Checkmatepics025.png
 
Your plate does look like it is mounted too low, but so does your motor. You don't need double upper bolts. The motor looks like it could come up 3 holes.
Get yourself some Merc intake scoops and you won't have to worry about getting enough water pressure.
 
"You don't need double upper bolts."

..for a total of four bolts instead of six?? I'm not so sure I like the idea of that.

That pic was taken before I raised the motor the 1 3/4". The previous owner had set it up the way it is/was and I agree, the bracket was mounted too low on the transom. In fact, it's mounted as low as t can go. I wish the brakect was ajustable, but it's just a "hard-tale" extension. The way it is drilled, the bulk of the adjustment option is ironically on the transom side, too which kind of sucks. I'm thinking on moving the motor back down to whereit was on the bracket and moving the bracket up that far plus another 3/4". That way I can still get yet another 1 3/4" again if I need too, but I think I would prolly run out of h2o psi by then with the oem p/u.
 
Your plate does look like it is mounted too low, but so does your motor. You don't need double upper bolts. The motor looks like it could come up 3 holes.
Get yourself some Merc intake scoops and you won't have to worry about getting enough water pressure.

Oh, I must have pulled the trigger too fast and missed your suggestion on the scoops. So, what's the poop on the scoops??
 
Here's the scoop on the scoops. http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4640&highlight=scoops
As far as your plate, you do not want to be moving it up and down too often. You have to make sure the bolts holes are 100% sealed to keep water out of your transom. You do need to raise it up to at least even with the top of the transom. And yes you only need 4 bolts for the motor. If you have 4 bolts up top you cannot move your motor up and down te way it was designed to. (Even if it was 300 HP you would still use just 4. Although they are now beginning to do it with some of the massive new motors...I think the Yamaha 350) Besides you have far more stress on the transom side of the jack than the motor side.
Here's 13" setback...4 bolts...no problems.
buff009.jpg
 
Well thanks for the info. I've asked a couple of guys around the shop here w/150 & 200 fishin' motors and they both said they only have 4 bolts, too. Using 4 bolts will sure open up more adjustment options for me.

Yes, I am very aware of having the holes in the transom sealed. I'm thinking some 4200 should do the job there. Moving the bracket to the top of the transom is probably the way to go. I'll have to study the bolt hole availibilty on the motor side and see where I will/can end up as far as running height adjustments if I do move the bracket all the way up to the top like you've suggested.

I also read the entire scoop thread and find it very interesting. It seems the boat dealer right up the street from my house has a set on the shelf, too. I have the top three holes on my intakes epoxied closed, smoothed and painted. I don't suppose it would be a problem to add the scoops now. I have been wondering for some time, however, if it might be beneficial to open up the remaing holes one drill bit size. I guess if I add the scoops then I should really consider opening them up as the center screws that attach the scoops will close up yet one more hole on each side.

PS More rep power to ya!
 
If you add the scoops, I would just open up the upper holes again. The scoops are quite narrow and I think will require all the holes to get enough water volume into the impeller. They are far better than having the upper holes blocked for maintaining water pressure.
Your motor looks like it needs to come up 3 inches or more. Then you'll see the revs you were looking for.
 
Beings that I am now at 4 1/4" below after raising my motor 1 3/4" and w/o the benefit of a lwp, do you really think I can run 3" higher w/o psi problems? That would have me somewhere around 1" below...w NO LWP!!

On another note, and just to throw the proverbial "wrench" in the machine, I have a borrowed 21" Laser II bolted up in place of the 22" Stiletto to try out tomorrow. I think I'll give it a "'whirl" before any other mods/adjustments. It's a long weekend so I'll have plenty of tweaking time...

Keep in mind I'm still chasing the right prop AND engine height at this point.
 
Oh... I was just going by the pic. You must have raised after that. W/O a water pressure gauge...I would stay in the 4" range.
Try every prop you can get your hands on. It's the only real way to dial it in. The journey is half the fun.:bigthumb:
 
No, the pick was before the 1 3/4" lift. I'm thinking I'll try the Laser II tomorrow and then add the scoops. See how, if at all that effect my water pressure, which isn't a problem yet. If I see some gain in psi, I'll go up another hole (3/4") and try it again.

I'm thinking the 21" is only going to net me 100...maybe 200 more rpm with the design difference, or 5400-5500 rpm. I hate to think I have to drop down to a 19" wheel to get over 5500 rpm. I know I going to end up wanting/needing to go up with the motor. I just hope I can go up another hole or two and maitain pressure. We'll see I guess.

Is a Laser II considered a "raker"? The blades look thinner and appears to have much more rake than the 22" Stiletto I have to compare it to. I know the Laser II is a smaller diameter @ 13 7/8" compared to the Stiletto's 14.25". Do you have any experince with or know of any tendencies or charectoristics of the Laser II????

Laser II Propeller​
13 7/8 X 21 RH SS 3 BL


6748_reg.jpg
 
Last edited:
Lasers are good on smaller boats. Might be good on a Exciter. Good lift and speed but can't take the engine height of a 4 blade or large diameter 3 blade. Rakers are a similar prop made by OMC/BRP.
 
With your top holes epoxied shut, the lower unit mimics a Torquemaster lower unit which can be run higher than a standard Fleetmaster. You can easily raise that motor so the propshaft is 2-3" below the pad without worrying about water pressure, but you really should add a pressure gauge. No substitute for knowledge, and you'd really hate to burn the motor up while testing. Maybe do the gauge before you worry about the scoops. If you raise the motor high enough to need the scoops, then you may not like it for pulling skiers....................................
 
JW, Thanks for the input. I added all new gauges including temp, psi and even a trim gauge while the power head was in the shop. I'm one of those "must know" guys and wouldn't consider raising a motor to it's limits w/o proper instrumentaion.

I sure wish I had raised the transom bracket during that period as I had the tank out to facilitate a bildge pump installation. I'll just have to burn this tank of gas now before I remove it to gain access to the bolts.

I just got finished with my yard work this morning so I think I'm going to go for a quick test w/the 21 Laser II.
 
Okay now I'm really confused.... But not really!! The Stilleto I've been testing with was new in the box. My bud had ordered it for one of his boats and has never used it. He can't remember why it has "22P" engraved in the side of it, but now I'm starting to think it is/was a 23P that has been tweaked to 22P...supposedly. Why do I say this you ask? I just spun the 21" Laser II @ 5900 rpm. I could only manage 5300 rpm with the Stiletto. Funny thing is I'm still hung right on 60 mph. These were back to back tests w/just me and about 1/2 tank (15+- gals.) of fuel.

I like the hole shot of the Lasr over the Stiletto and the handling and EVEN the stability at higher rpms of the Laser, as well.

I'm still going to come up another notch on the motor and see how that works. If I get another 100 or more rpm then I think I can easily step up to the 23P Laser II. I think I even have access to a 23P Tempest to test, as well.

This is getting fun.
 
mark on your j/p is that square tube an extension or normal for detweiler j/p ? ive got a cmc 5.5" n want a bit more but i dont have slack in steering for alot more setback . im playn w/ my setup as well w jp and props not so much top speed ,but all around!
 
Just 3" aluminum square tubing. Fairly heavy gauge...maybe 5/16"...can't remember. Bought 2' for $20, cut it in half and CAREFULLY drilled the bolt pattern. Cheap setback!
 
I thought I'd offer up the latest prop data on the Laser II. This time with a load. Four peeps onboard with all our "stuff" (is that what George Carlin calls it??) and a couple of ice chests to boot... Also figured I'd post up a couple of pics from our fantastic Labor Day on the water. We managed to cover three rivers and even navigated 10 miles each way of Lake Maurepas. The return trip with the girls on the tube, mind you..... What a day....hehehehe! I'm very happy with my Checkmate resto project and T-Rex'd peanut motor. I've just got to share...

Oh yeah, the prop data. MARK!!! I see what you mean about the Laser II being better suited for a light boat. I had noticed a bit of prop slip the other day while testing with the 21p Laser II with just myself onboard. Just to refresh.. It went 60 mph @5900 rpm. Well, with todays four person plus load, it went only 54 mph. Understandable, yes, but at 5900 rpm. I felt like I was in an old MG with a badly slipping clutch!!!!

Okay, enough of that. I want to try a four blade prop. Unfortunately, I don't have any buddies with one. I can't afford to invest in a prop to test. I'm thinking a 21" Trophy Plus might be in the ball park. I've always thought you should drop a pitch or two when switching from a 3 to 4 balde, but the Throhpy Plus' are still a "small" diameter prop and I'm spinning a 21" Laser II above the factory spec.

Also, can someone relate the differences in performance between a Laser II and a Tempest?? I have a 23" Tempest available for testing, but I'm pretty sure that its larger diameter in conjunction with the jump in pitch is going to be tuff to pull.

Okay, okay..now for the good stuff. The pics... Not the greatest, but we all know we like to check out chicks...I mean Checks!!!

I sure love living in Louisiana.

LaborDay2007008.png


What a fine ride!!!
LaborDay2007004.png

There's a Laser II down there about 4" below the pad!!
LaborDay2007002.png

My first mate. His other job is working for the Supreme Court. Sure are glad the Justices had the day off......
LaborDay2007007.png

...and the "crew"!!!!
LaborDay2007006.png
 
If you go to a small hub trophy plus, you can run more pitch! The small amount of over the hub exhaust will let it turn more rpm's. On my 20' Pulsare w/225, I run a 27" trophy plus. In a Tempest Plus, I can't even begin to turn a 25. I lose 800 rpm and about 12to14 mph! boatman
 
Can you clarify what you mean by "small hub". I'm going to assume that your talking about the outside diameter of the hub.

Small hub = 4.25
vs
Large hub @ 4.75

I'm probably way wrong, but that's why I ask.

Thanks
 
Back
Top