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Another 2800SX Resto
- Thread starter Ramifications
- Start date
senator-holland
Well-known member
Saw the pics everywhere on FB! Awsome!
JUPITER PULSARE
Well-known member
Welcome to the world of "working out the gremlins" on a boat that has changed hands a few too many times and not properly setup. With time, alot of patience and hopefully NOT alot of money they will work themselves out. Take my advice as I have learned the hard way...when you make a change to improve the boat; do it right the first time and don't take short cuts. It'll cost you more in the long run! One of my biggest reasons for keeping my old Gill Brackets instead of installing a flotation style setback box was that I did not want to re-drill my transom with a ton holes and have to fill in the old Gill bracket holes. Those Stainless Marine setback boxes require lots of holes drilled around the perimeter of the flange that can lead to water intrusion. Hopefully, the water from the hull drain plug was nothing more than trapped rain/snow water that you shook loose! As far as the gearcases, check to see that you did not pop a shift rod loose on the port motor which would keep you from shifting into reverse. Also, check your shift linkage adjustment on the motor to make sure you are fully engaging reverse..On the starboard motor, if the shifter is engaging both forward and reverse but the motor doesn't turn the prop..you may have snapped a drive shaft...
Ramifications
Well-known member
Lower unit issue figured out... as to the cause, but the damage is yet to be explored.
I was able to get home at a decent hour today and take a look at the lower units. I noticed the other day there was milky fluid leaking out of the lowers, but was to frustrated to spend the time to look. (the damage was already done) I pulled the drain plugs and got some milky oil out, but there was more water than fluid in the cases. I assume there was a beat seal(s) and I got water intrusion which cause heat/failure. I also found some missing parts... (typical findings on the boat at this point- every time I look at anything that was done, it was done wrong
) The rear bolt, which goes up from the lower into the mid in the back under the anode, was not there. That was the only one I didn't check on the lower I didn't take off. Also, the filler block which goes between the exhaust and water pump was not there... Growing tired of finding these purely lazy loose ends
I will pull the internals out over the weekend and inspect the damage.
These are CLE cases- does anyone know if they use specific CLE parts or will standard 1.87 gears work?
I now have a slightly modified plan for the boat. I will be pulling the engines off and pull the setback bracket off. Once that is done, I will get the cabin done so I can drop it off to the upholstery shop. After that, I will get back to the lowers and some miscellaneous engine work.
Once the boat is back from upholstery, I will get the setback bracket and transom cleaned up and reinstall the setback in a good bed of 5200, followed by hanging the engines. If time allows, I will also be pulling the carpet in the cockpit and gel coat everything. Hopefully everything comes together with perfect timing for the spring.
I was able to get home at a decent hour today and take a look at the lower units. I noticed the other day there was milky fluid leaking out of the lowers, but was to frustrated to spend the time to look. (the damage was already done) I pulled the drain plugs and got some milky oil out, but there was more water than fluid in the cases. I assume there was a beat seal(s) and I got water intrusion which cause heat/failure. I also found some missing parts... (typical findings on the boat at this point- every time I look at anything that was done, it was done wrong
) The rear bolt, which goes up from the lower into the mid in the back under the anode, was not there. That was the only one I didn't check on the lower I didn't take off. Also, the filler block which goes between the exhaust and water pump was not there... Growing tired of finding these purely lazy loose ends I will pull the internals out over the weekend and inspect the damage.These are CLE cases- does anyone know if they use specific CLE parts or will standard 1.87 gears work?
I now have a slightly modified plan for the boat. I will be pulling the engines off and pull the setback bracket off. Once that is done, I will get the cabin done so I can drop it off to the upholstery shop. After that, I will get back to the lowers and some miscellaneous engine work.
Once the boat is back from upholstery, I will get the setback bracket and transom cleaned up and reinstall the setback in a good bed of 5200, followed by hanging the engines. If time allows, I will also be pulling the carpet in the cockpit and gel coat everything. Hopefully everything comes together with perfect timing for the spring.
Ramifications
Well-known member
True on the first part. A heads up would have saved me a headache, time and some money
I now know better moving forward on this boat...
JUPITER PULSARE
Well-known member
The CLE will except standard 1.87 gear sets. The big difference is that the CLE came with heavy duty bearing carriers but you can use stock carriers. You can also use stock prop shafts and drive shafts which may be better in a salt water environment as the SS shafts in the Sportmasters tend to rust...
Ramifications
Well-known member
Quick update as to where the project is. I haven't had much time to work on the boat. I have lowers off and disassembled, engines off, setback off and most of the wood dry fit in the cabin. I will finalize the wood work tomorrow and try to get the cabin 100% by the end of this coming week. Before it goes to the upholstery shop, I will pull the K planes as well. While it is there, I will rebuild the lowers and get a few things tightened up on the engines. When I get the boat back, I am tearing out the transom and rebuilding it before I reinstall the bracket and engines. Here are a few pics.
JT Patroni
Well-known member
Spencer
The Mate is taking shape real nice. Other than not enough hours in the day you seen to be progressing at a decent pace. Winter months are never long enough when you take on a project as large as yours. Before you know it the spring will be back and it looks as if you will be ready.
Keep up the good work.
The Mate is taking shape real nice. Other than not enough hours in the day you seen to be progressing at a decent pace. Winter months are never long enough when you take on a project as large as yours. Before you know it the spring will be back and it looks as if you will be ready.
Keep up the good work.
Just a thought, I wonder in your situation would it be easier to cut the top of the transom cap and use sea cast? I've seen that repair done on other boats like Mako, Boston Whaler's etc. I'm not familiar with the product but might be worth looking into. http://transomrepair.net/ Another option is to cut the inside skin and dig out the old wood.
DropTop5.0
Well-known member
I was talking with Spencer the other day and he mentioned that same application. This is some cool stuff: http://www.carbon-core.com/carbonbond-transom.htm
Ramifications
Well-known member
It has been a long winter with NO progress made 
The boat looks now exactly like it did in the last pictures I posted. I have made a few moves on the power plants after pricing out the repairs for the lowers - I found some decent priced 2008 Mercury Verado 300's. I am hoping they are here in about a week and half. I will be selling off everything engine related I have - Steering, controls, engines, setback etc.
The engines will get bolted to the transom or 6" jack plates. Still undecided. I am only going to finalize what I started in the cabin for now. I'll get back to that later in the year. Stay tuned
The boat looks now exactly like it did in the last pictures I posted. I have made a few moves on the power plants after pricing out the repairs for the lowers - I found some decent priced 2008 Mercury Verado 300's. I am hoping they are here in about a week and half. I will be selling off everything engine related I have - Steering, controls, engines, setback etc.
The engines will get bolted to the transom or 6" jack plates. Still undecided. I am only going to finalize what I started in the cabin for now. I'll get back to that later in the year. Stay tuned
JUPITER PULSARE
Well-known member
It has been a long winter with NO progress made
The boat looks now exactly like it did in the last pictures I posted. I have made a few moves on the power plants after pricing out the repairs for the lowers - I found some decent priced 2008 Mercury Verado 300's. I am hoping they are here in about a week and half. I will be selling off everything engine related I have - Steering, controls, engines, setback etc.
The engines will get bolted to the transom or 6" jack plates. Still undecided. I am only going to finalize what I started in the cabin for now. I'll get back to that later in the year. Stay tuned
Are the Verados you're buying 20" or 25" mids?? You're going to have to carefully plan out the re-rig with the Verados. They weigh roughly 635lbs each at 20" mid lengths. Setback will be crucial. I think 6" would be perfect. Bare in mind that the Verados already have 5" of setback built into the design of the bracket. Then, depending upon mid lengths, your motor height mounting will also be of great concern. The 6" jackplates will certainly help fine tuning everything! Keep us updated!
Ramifications
Well-known member
Everything is on its way here now
The engines will be mounted around 24-25" centers (which also allows me to you a stock tie bar), spinning out. That will leave me enough room to work on the engines if need be. They will be mounted on 6" manual jack plates. The whole boat is going to be re rigged. Two new smart craft gauges, DTS controls, power steering and will all be tied into my Raymarine A98 sea talk system. All of the old gauges will be coming out at some point.
The engines will be mounted around 24-25" centers (which also allows me to you a stock tie bar), spinning out. That will leave me enough room to work on the engines if need be. They will be mounted on 6" manual jack plates. The whole boat is going to be re rigged. Two new smart craft gauges, DTS controls, power steering and will all be tied into my Raymarine A98 sea talk system. All of the old gauges will be coming out at some point.
Ramifications
Well-known member
Oh, and they are 20" engines.
JUPITER PULSARE
Well-known member
Ramifications
Well-known member
Made a little progress in the last week or so. Removed all of the old rigging and wiring. Ran all new wires and all of the new rigging and hoses for the new setup. All that is left for the new engines is mounting the power steering pump and helm along with connecting the hoses. I will be redoing the cockpit next season, so I will remove and redo the gauge layout then. I also drilled out ALL the old holes in the transom and glassed them in. Once the epoxy sets, I will fill the holes from the inside.
