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Starting floor stringer repairs

KevinR said:
PC300070.jpg
Click to expand...

Kevin,

Those holes in the knee braces were nothing more than drainage holes to the bilge. From the previous up close picture you posted, it looked as if there was exposed wood in the hole. That created a big problem in your substructure. I would bet the knee wood under that glass is rotted if not atleast really wet.

In another post, someone mentioned that coosa had to be used with epoxy. I don't beleive that to be true. The local boat mfgr here does his transoms with the coosa and uses only vinylester resin.

Jim
 
Yeah the knees are coming out next at lest one of them is rotted. Then I'll deside on what to do with the trans.
 
Well after the knees came out looked at tran and it was rotted and wet all the way through. Got most of it out pics to come.
 
Transum gone just need to finish sanding and order the materials, then she'll be going back together

P1070079.jpg

P1070081.jpg

P1070078.jpg
 
Looks good kevin!! Did you end up removing the top cap and slide it forward to access the transom?
 
No I was able to peel it off from the inside. I'm going to use Coosa board for the transum and wood for everything else. The wood will be glassed both sides of course with no foam ging back in. going to order the Coosa and epoxy monday
 
Got all my supplies, finished the removal of the trans. Going to start making patterns to start putting her back together.


One question I have is what would be better to adhear the trans to the hull. I've used the two layers of mat method before but i kind of like the idea of using an adhesive like epoxy or 5200. Any insite would be appriciated
 
KevinR said:
Got all my supplies, finished the removal of the trans. Going to start making patterns to start putting her back together.


One question I have is what would be better to adhear the trans to the hull. I've used the two layers of mat method before but i kind of like the idea of using an adhesive like epoxy or 5200. Any insite would be appriciated
Click to expand...


Kevin,
Here's a good thread on bonding the transom to the hull:http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16607&highlight=premuim Do you have anyway of clamping the new transom tight against the hull? I used PL Premuim from Lowes for both of my resto's.
 
Kevin,

As for what Robie asked about clamping. Go to BigRedInOhio's resto
and make what he used. I did and it worked out great. Some 2x4 parts,
all thread and nuts and washers. Simple system.
 
Looking good!!! Fill the sides and bottom where the transom meets the hull flush, it's easier to glass in place. Also on the top of the transom bevel it back with filler at a 45* angle. I used hull and deck putty for filler material in those areas. The glass doesn't like sharp corners kinda hard for it to lay down and adhere.
 
Trans thickness

Kevin,

Great workmanship! And clever ideas for a complex clamp job. Any pictures on where the inside joins up to ? The brace boards that is.

What is the thickness of the trans you made ? I am going to be starting up on mine again this weekend coming up and have to ensure the knees and trans are dry. It has been very cold in NJ.

Mike :cheers:
 
don't really have any pictures of the trans bonded to the inside class, sorry. so far the tans pc that is bonded is 1" thick all the way across just like the factory plywood that it replaced. The next step is bonding the 1.5" thick center section to what is already in. Plan on doing that tonight. Didn't get much work done this weekend and what i did do I kind of screwed up so I stepped away before it cost me more money. Good luck on you restore.
 
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